Hong Kong
I was never more joyful/apprehensive to arrive anywhere than on my first visit to Hong Kong, 16 years ago. I was reuniting with the love of my life and beginning an adventure which would shape the rest of it.
As I sailed through the harbor and toward my new home on Lantau Island I looked at the skyline of Hong Kong Island with its enormous and neon lit skyscrapers and felt like a country farm girl - even after having grown up in a large and busy citymy whole life. I was awestruck by the larger than life vision combined with a palpable kinetic energy that would soon define the place for me forever. For nearly nine years of my life I made Hong Kong my home. Got married there, had my first child there, built a career there.
From the earliest days (OK, after a few months of painful integration) I felt at home in Hong Kong. In so many world cities you tend to feel like an outsider, a tourist board visitor with a "hi my name is..." badge. In Hong Kong as with no other city I've visited people from anywhere in the world can feel they belong. It is the intimacy of the city. Everything is accessible and available. In no time at all you know the backstreets and short cuts - even the local customs and cursory language skills.
Hong Kong has always been a proof of that old cliche "The only constant is change." On this visit I embraced a startling degree of reinvention. 8 years after the handover and five years since my last visit, I found Hong Kong with the inevitable changes to the skyline. Huge tracts of the harbor having been reclaimed to make way for taller and more imaginative skyscrapers. The sight filled me with joy and reminded me of the constant sense of optimism I felt while living there. Progress was inevitable. The city is more casual in many ways. The once dark suited businessman/woman now slightly more relaxed in dress. The once distinct separation of Chinese locals from the expatriates now given way to a genuine melting pot of ethnicities. New sections of the city now exploding with their own unique charm - ever expanding outward from central.
The city is bustling as ever, polluted as ever (if not more) with industry and auto emissions and full to brimming with people. Crowds, the constant atmosphere of competition and that old kinetic energy still pervade everything. Deals being done everywhere. At poolside loungers, on napkins at dim sum restaurants, airport lounges and public transportation.
The cell phone......that ubiquitous personal tool long used in the territory now is mostly used for SMS or text messaging. Everyone is face down at their pda - texting. That is of course while listening to their ipods - necks adorned with both.
And now I was back, 8 years of living in the US under my belt. How did I feel about Asia? Could I ever move back to Hong Kong, a place of such significance and a place I've adored above all others?
Many of my friends remain. Meetings with them, seeing their families and ways of life were helpful. They remain very happy in Hong Kong. After all - it is the center of the universe.
But I realized two important things: First, I am 16 years older and Hong Kong never ages, in fact if anything it gets younger in spirit and tone. Second, I've changed. My time there is done. My corporate ladder climbing, late nights out, over indulging and compromising in terms of my health and wellness. Engaging and magical as it all was, I've got a family to raise and personal visions to realize.
I did go back, but not home. In so many ways, Hong Kong will always be a place I can feel instantly comfortable and "at home". Yet I can never live there again, much to my dismay as it was always something I longed to do. I'm still getting over this reality.
The adventure of re-locating still beckons. Perhaps Shanghai - or another world city waiting to explode. More adventures to begin and I'm grateful to have Hong Kong as my teacher. Life is an adventure. Living and working in Asia taught me that there is much of the world to know. If I came away from this trip with one realization it is that the time to move on and experience one of those new places is soon.............................
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